Here is a brief listing of some helpful tips and do's and don'ts for those who like to take their rifles into the field :

The first thing you must decide is whether or not your rifle is going to be a wallhanger. If you have more money than you will ever know what to do with, disregard this page entirely. for the 99.9% of us who don't, keep reading. Rule of thumb is generally not to shoot a collector grade rifle, and if you must, do so only sparingly with commercial or light handloads. To more properly define collector grade: an all matching rifle with original factory finish, or something exceedingly rare. You could potentially turn a $1200+ rifle into a $500 parts gun. here is a safety checklist:

1. replace the internal bolt recoiling and operating rod springs with brand new manufacture replacements...otherwise, you might as well run in a demolition derby without a seat belt. just doing this one task will greatly reduce potential for parts breakage due to weak or "set" springs and improper recoil cusion of the operating parts. Itemizing the cost breakdown of replacement parts which are most frequently damaged or broken due to this one item:
-bolt carrier (interlocking foot may break off, front of carrier may crack in half behind the foot.) , original condition complete $125-175
-bolt (may crack or fracture in several areas), stripped $50-100
-locking lugs (may fracture), pair $50-85
-firing pin housing (may crack at the rear) $75-100
-bolt housing $150-175
-complete safety assembly (retaining ring may break resulting in the loss of some or all safety components) $100+
-operating rod (may bend, break or mushroom out) $20-40
recoil assembly (can become mangled and unuseable), complete $40-60

-extractor assembly (may break or shed itself several yards away into the grass) $60-100

not to mention cracking or breaking the stock and handguard - just try and replace those puppies!

....as compared to:
-new set of springs $15 shipped.

here is a link to find these springs cheaper than anywhere else in the world: Spring sets

2. Buy an inexpensive Shooter's kit replacement gas restrictor system from Rob. He designed and produced these himself to exacting tolerances to get the most efficient, and safe combonation.
Hey, I use these on my rifles. these make the gas system adjustable just like the Svt-40 and Fn-49! Each kit contains:

for some other great websites with loads of good Gewehr / Karabiner 43 information, visit my link page: G43 and K43 links

Disassembly of the G/K43

Frequent malfunctions and common problems of the G/K43

1. Q. The gas cylinder assembly on my gun cannot be removed by hand as it is either rusted or corroded on to the piston.(I have not tried to remove it with a pair of pliars which looks to be what it will take to remove it.) how do I go about removing it without damaging the rifle or parts?
A. It is most likely corroded on. I had a similar problem with one of mine. I took it to the range and fired about 25 rounds of winchester commercial hunting ammo in it, and finally, the cylinder moved. (only about 1/2 inch). I took it home, and with a small gunsmith hammer and a brass block, gently tapped it the remainder of the way off. to remove the carbon buildup which froze these two parts, I used scotch brite pads (available in the kitchen isle at your local supermarket) to polish the piston, and inner cylinder wall. I then lightly oiled the metal, and wiped clean. I've never had a problem since. this is a common problem, and I think it has a lot to do with a vet shooting the gun once or twice when he brought it home, and then storing it for 50 years, leaving the uncleaned gas system to seize up. another good way to clean the inside of the cylinder is to take a .45 caliber bore brush and put it in your electric drill or dremel tool motor, and "have a go" at that pesky buildup inside.

2. Q. How do I install my front sight hood??
A. I've found that using a flathead screwdriver works best. one that you can insert narrow ways into the bottom of the hood, and twist the screwdriver so that it gently pries on both prongs of the hood, opening them slightly, but just enough to start them over the sight ramp. then gently (this is tricky now, it might take a couple of tries) tap the hood back onto the ramp so that the prongs feed into the slots in the ramp and tap it back until it seats itself.

3. Q. how do I put my safety back in my rifle??
A. to install these is quite a chore. you MUST have the receiver out of the stock wood. the spring goes in first, followed by the plunger (you will be able to see where they fit). the lever is next, followed by the retaining clip. you need to hold the plunger in with a dowel, or screwdriver, and insert the lever. with good dexterity, or a third hand, use a pair of snap ring pliers, or needle nose to draw the snap ring together and insert it and it will lock in place. (this procedure, when I do it, usually breaks a sweat on my forehead and takes about 1/2 hour to get it right.) don't get discouraged if at first you don't succeed! you will also see how the original and repro snap ring differ. the original has a notch to keep it centered in the reciever. it's a good idea to have a spare or two incase one ever breaks. and keep in mind, they no longer make the originals, so the repro is as close as it gets!
a fellow collector shared this tip with me, and it makes this process a whole lot easier... with the gun out of the stock, insert the spring and plunger, and seat them to the farthest depth (in the safe position, blocking the sear.) insert the rear triggerguard screw and tighten it until it locks onto the safety plunger holding it at this depth. you can then insert the safety and retaining ring easily without the spring tension of the plunger working against you!

4. Q. how do I change out my worn out barrel?
Removing a G/K43 barrel requires skill. replacing it a miracle. I seriously do not recommend it. they are press pinned in place, not threaded like a k98. since two barrels will have different dimensions, no two barrels will interchange and properly headspace. don't get me wrong, it can be done, but is not worth the effort and potential damage. I have removed three barrels in my time. I have never replaced one, and never intend to. first, you need to freeze the complete assembly. I'm talking a deep freeze for days below zero. then, remove the barrel pin (sometimes easy, sometimes not.) then torch heat the receiver until it smokes with evaporating oil. (you must before all of this, have removed everything which is attatched to the barrell, i.e. sight assembly, gas port, etc.) now, the barrel must be pressed with a hydraulic press rearward out of the receiver. I do not recommend driving with a hammer, as this can and will bend the receiver. (not to mention ruin the crown on your barrel). that is how to remove. since I have never installed one, I can't rightly say.

5. Q. what should I use to clean my G43?
A. as far as cleaning goes, if you use surplus corrosive ammo clean asap with a good soap and water or water/ammonia combonation first before regular cleaning practices, or use something else to neutralize the corrosive primer salts such as us.gi. ww2 bore cleaner. (just don't get any on you!) the bolt can be easily removed in 1 piece for cleaning the bore, the bolt face should also be cleaned, as well as the gas cylinder and piston to remove the corrosive residues. if you use commercial ammo, shoot and don't worry about it, clean as you would any other rifle with commercial ammo.

6. Q. How do you clean an old grungy stock?
A. here is a good link to a page Darrin Weaver wrote on this subject: Stock cleaning

Stock Repair Service

Is Your original G43 or K43 stock in need of repair? has it been duffle cut or sporterized? Well, before you go out and drop your wad on one of those $300 reproductions, why not try repairing your original? Tom Edwards does this service for you, and is very experienced. his services range from $40-$100 depending on how much work / time is involved, and will not only save you money, but also lets you keep the gun together with it's original configuration wood! He is highly recommended by us here at Gewehr43.com! Email Tom with all your stock repair needs! Tom's stock repair

7. Q. Is a plastic "bakelite" handguard correct on my Walther Ac code rifle?
A. I have seen a few Walther (Ac) code guns with the phenolic resin handguards (Durofol marked) but I am skeptical as to wether this is original. I think that the bakelite jobs on Walther guns were done by vets and collectors post war because they had a "cool" look to them. they are no more durable than the laminated wood, and break just as often in the same places. they are much less common however. as far as I have found, Berlin Lubecker (Duv, Qve) was the only one of the three manufacturers to officially use the phenolic handguards on rifles from the factory, and these rifles with such handguards follow fairly tight serial number patterns.

8. Q. my G43's trigger travels quite a distance before the gun is fired. Is this typical of the G43 or is there an adjustment I can make?
A. this is fairly typical, and yes, you can adjust it. remove the bolt group from the rifle, and you will see on the top middle of the sear, a tiny set screw. turn this screw with a small flathead jewelrey screwdriver to adjust the trigger pull....I've found that I can adjust these to a "hair" trigger on my rifles, but doing so will place the rear of the sear in the path of the safety plunger, making the safety inoperable, so I find a happy medium where the safety is still functional, and the trigger pull is tighter....interestingly, it seems BLM hardened these set screws and Walther did not. it is fairly easy to bugger or break a walther set screw if it is tight.

Sighting the Zf4:
This is my recommendation for sighting in the scope on a rifle. first, remove all three locking screws from both the windage and elevation drum covers on the scope body, and remove the cover plates. Set the rifle on a fixed bench rest position aimed at a 100 yard target. Make it sturdy, I find that a couple of sand bags under the fore end work like a champ. Position the rifle so that the iron sights are dead on the target at 100 yards. Now look through the scope and see where the post is aligned. Turn the adjustment screws on the inside of the drums to line up the post reticle to the identical spot that the iron sights are. Now turn the drums so they read 100 yards for elevation, and center the windage. Replace the drum covers and screws, and test fire a 3 to 5 shot group. repeat this process as necessary to achieve the desired results. It should only take a few minutes.

Ammunition:
It would be wise to stay away from any milsurp Turkish, Romanian, Pre-1970's Yugoslavian, or any German Wartime ammunition marked: Fur MG (for machine gun).
Recommended ammunition for these rifles would be: Sellier and Belloit, any post 1970's Yugoslavian, Ecuadorian, Wartime German, Egyptian, Commercial hunting loads, and any handloads you may be able to tune out for your particular rifle. keep in mind that you should always treat milsurp ammo as if it is corrosive and clean accordingly, or you will ruin your barrel. and gas system. here is a link to cleaning after shooting corrosive ammunition. bore cleaning

It is recommended that you clean your gas system after everytime you shoot. with the bolt assembly removed or locked to the rear, remove the handguard and gas system. spray the inside of the cylinder and all surfaces of the gas piston with commercial carburetor or brake cleaner... it is cheaper than the name brand gun solvents and works just as well. use only in a well ventilated area so you don't pass out or piss off the wife. wipe clean and then wipe the mating surfaces with a little bit of light oil to prevent rust. remove any excess oil. a pipe cleaner works well removing carbon fouling from the inside of the piston, and a .45 cal bore brush does fine for carbon fouling on the inside of the cylinder. this will prevent gas system freeze up or "seizure" down the line, a very common problem with these rifles.

How to tell if an advertised "unfired" gun is really "unfired"

here are some ways to tell if the rifle has been fired: if there is black residue on the inside of the handguard and stock around the gas piston/cylinder area, and on the gas piston, if the gas piston and/or bore has any pitting or corrosion, if there is a small ring of fine pitting on the bolt face around the firing pin hole, If there is rub mark on the front of the bolt carrier where the operating rod would strike. all these things mean the gun has been fired.

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